1.Cutting
of a trunk section. Thus begins, strictly
speaking, violins making. |
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2.Cutting
the corner (joining of the ribs) with the
aid of a "mold" or "form". |
3.This
band of wood is a future rib. The violin
maker is making it perfectly flat by means
of a scraper, one of his many tools. |
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4.Here
the violin maker is giving the rib an adequate
curve. |
5.Ribs,
blocks, corners and linings assembled around
the mold. |
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6.The
back and belly of the violin can be made
of a single piece or two pieces. Here, the
violin maker has probably glued together
the two pieces of the back. |
7.The
violin maker is fitting the trying-plane
(jointer). |
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8.Outlining
the back (or the belly). |
9.Cutting
the back with a saw. |
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10.Working
with the gouge. |
11.Roughing
down with a small scraper. |
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12.The
violin maker finicking the back with another
scraper. |
13.Hollowing
out the arching of the back. |
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14.The
violin maker evens off the contours of the
ribs. |
15.A
delicate operation: gluing the back to the
ribs. |
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16.Placing
the linings. |
17.Using
a model the violin maker draws the f-holes
on the belly (made more or less in the same
way as the back), with a simple pencil. |
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18.Cutting
out the f-holes. |
19.It
is with a penknife, the violin maker’s major
tool, that he finishes cutting out, with
great precision, the ƒƒ ’s of the f-holes. |
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20.Here
the violin maker has glued the bass bar
to the top; they are held together with
cramps until the glue dries. |
21.And
here is the top with the clearly visible
bass bar. |
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22.Here,
the purfling-cutter helps our violin maker
to draw the purfling grooves all around
the belly and back. |
23.Purfling,
which consists in applying the purfles.
The purfles, generally made of service tree
wood or ebony, do not only play an aesthetic
role, they also reinforce the edges of the
violin. |
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24.Using
his model, the violin maker draws the neck
and the scroll. |
25.Sculpting
the scroll. |
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26.Setting
the neck, already fitted with the fingerboard
(the black part, in ebony). |
27.Once
the violin is finished, it is exposed to
sunlight for at least one year before varnishing
in order to eliminate a maximum of the humidity
remaining in the wood. Once the wood has
dried, it is covered with the "preparazione"
(a mixture of natural substances to harden
the wood). |
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28.Then,
following a very particular method, the
violin maker applies various layers of varnish
until he obtains the desired consistency
and hue. The violin must dry completely
between each layer of varnish. |
29.After
making the pegs, the violin maker uses a
special device to give the pegholes the
necessary conic shape. |
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30.Fitting
the sound-post with a "sound-post setter". |
31.Sculpting
the bridge with a penknife; this requires
special care, for the sound and timbre of
the instrument will depend a great deal
on this little piece of wood. |
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32.Fitting
the strings on the bridge. |
33.The
final step for the violin maker is making
the last adjustments; he tunes the violin
before posing the chin rest and trying out
his creation... |
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